by Karolina Kalinowski

 

 

 

Nom:

Yves (Henri Donat Mathieu) Saint Laurent

 

Pays/Ville:

Paris, France

 

Details Personnels:

I was fated to go into law, but thanks to my fashionable mother I was saved from that bland future. Upon winning third place for a cocktail dress design, my mom took me to Paris to be introduced to the fashion world. At 19, and it was only by some miracle, that I was taken in to be Christian Dior's assistant. He proudly referred to me as his "right hand", so it was no surprise that I became the head of the fashion house after his death. My first collection for Dior was soon after, and even I can say it was a great success. People in the streets chanted and acclaimed me the saviour of the Parisian fashion scene. After I was replaced at Dior, naturally, I opened my own fashion house, with its first collection in 1962 and its first boutique in 1966. I am proud to say i reinvented the contemporary woman's wardrobe, introducing many of the pieces they take for granted now. Despite my successes, I have to admit I struggled with depression and addiction to alcohol and tranquilizers. Yet many believe that in those moments of crisis did I have the flashes of genius. After freeing myself from those burdens and coming to the public as sober, I retired from the fashion industry in 2002.

 

 

Date de Naissance:

August 1st, 1936 in Oran, Algeria

 

Date de Mort:

June 1st, 2008 in Paris, France

 

 

part of the ad campain for spring/summer 2009

 

Sexe:

Male

 

Situation de Famille:

Pierre Berge- a life partner, former lover

 

En Cherchant:

friendship, love, happiness, freedom from addiction and depression

 

Metier:

• Fashion designer
• Stage designer
• Film costume designer
• Founder and managing director of Societe Yves Saint Laurent fashion firm

 

 

After the showing of his first collection in 1987.

 

Interets/Loisirs:

• designing new collections for various endeavors
• spending time with Pierre Berge 
• illustrating
• book-writing
• theatre/theatrical costume

 

Accomplissements:

• was Christian Dior's "right hand" and later the head of the fashion house
• opened own fashion house in 1962, and launched his first collection
• created the wardrobe of the contemporary woman
• revolutionized eveningwear, office attire and haute couture
• company is listed in the Paris stockmarket
• introduced Pop Art into fashion
• set the trend for boutique shopping
• received two awards at the International Wool Secretariat
• Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar
• Harper's Bazaar Award
• Council of Fashion Designers of America Award
• Knighthood of the Legion of Honour
• Honorary Degree and Gold Medal for Assistance to Scientific Research

 

Education:

• The Lycee d'Oran until 1953
• Ecole de la Chambre, Syndicale de la Couture until 1954

 

Les Collections Recents:

• Manifesto Spring/Summer 2009 
• Cruise 2009
• Edition 24
• Pre-Fall 2009

 

 

Parfums:

• Y 
• Opium 
• Rive Gauche
• Paris
• Elle

 

Inspirations:

• beatniks
• peasants
• traditional aspects of Russian, Chinese and African clothing
• Diaghilev's Ballets Russes
• menswear
• Paintings of Picasso
• Minimalist works of Mondrain
• Stijl movement
• old couturiers

 

 

 

Carachteristiques des Creations: 

• ideas capture feeling of the moment
• easy to wear, practical, liberating
• perfection of line, understanding of printed textiles
• day clothes- best fabric, simple, with a slightly boyish quality
• evening clothes- soft and luxurious

 

Contributions pour la Mode:

• Pea jackets
• Feminine trench coats
• Pants in eveningwear and business attire
• Trapeze dresses
• Mondrain shift
• safari jackets
• Fur duffle coats
• Carmen and Dr. Zhivago looks 
• Taffeta gowns
• "le smoking" (a female tuxedo)
• fur jacket with knitted sleeves
• the shirt dress
• the caban
• the platform sandal

 

 

 

Romans Favoris:

Writings of Marcel Proust

 

 

Personnage que je voudrais rencontrer et pourquoi:

Chanel because she was in the same mind frame of woman's liberation as I was.

 

YSL mascara from the cosmetics line 

 

Citations sur Moi:

"Saint Laurent has saved France" ~crowds after my first collection at Dior

"Once he had made a fashion statement, there was really nothing left for other designers to say" ~A London Times contributor

"The last of an era in fashion" ~reporter for CNN

 

 

a classic YSL look

 

Mon Influence sur la Culture Francaise:

     It is impossible to deny my influence of fashion and on French culture in general. I was the one who revolutionized women's clothes of the 70s and introduced pieces that are staples in our closets today. By introducing pants as the contemporary woman's basic piece, whether it be in business attire or evening wear, I was taking part in the feminist movement of the time. This was a very bold move on my part because many high-end hotels and many offices banned women from entering if they weren't wearing a dress or a skirt. He marked the way for many french women by introducing men's attire into women's fashions. Where would we be without the liberating fashions like the trench coat or the women's business suit?

     As Christian Dior sealed Paris a fashion capital, so I resurrected it after World War II, giving it a daring edge, while still remaining classy. After the war, Paris was drained of energy and the crowds rejoiced after my first collection at Dior, claiming me the saviour of French fashion and style. In the modern times, Paris is still regarded as the city of elegance and well-thought out style, partially thanks to me. I can proudly say that I remade the face of French style and set a high standard for other designers, with a French designer at the top.

     As a film costume designer, I can say I gave film a new face. After all, the costume design was up to me- my imagination and choices. I reinvented the film scene, just like Givenchy set a standard for movies that attempted to have the spirit of the Audrey Hepburn ones. With Catherine Deneuve as one of my greatest fans, it is fair to say that along with her, I also developed an image for the classic French actress. This added to the way the world looks at French celebrities as well as France as a whole, since celebrities are usually the ones who represent a culture. I allowed them to develop an edgy and daring style, while still remaining very elegant. I have heard that this is what I have been loved and respected for.

Vive la France! :) 

 

Notes:

http://www.ysl.com/

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/templates/EntrySC.jhtml;jsessionid=2BI2S4A5UJSLSCQAAKQRABI?itemId=cat6340738&parentId=cat000019&masterId=cat000009&ecid=NMSGDIYves_Saint_Laurent

 

Resources:

 

Glen Luchford. (Online Image) Available <http://supermodels.nl/Upload/News/0705/malgosiabela-ysl-opium.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Unknown. (Online Image) Available <http://www.edward-merrin.com/img/yves-saint-laurent.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Unknown. (Online Image) Available <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_OAh4Xl94vrU/SERm796S1BI/AAAAAAAADwY/WI62lGVgPDM/s1600-h/rt_ysl_kiss_080602_ssh.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Unknown. (Online Image) Available <http://assets.nydailynews.com/img/2008/05/17/amd_books_paris_1962.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Unknown. (Online Image) Available <http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_B0v3sNI4afk/SERPhB0ex9I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/v4PdMtBwGDs/s1600-h/YSL2.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Unknown. (Online Image) Available <https://ssl9.chi.us.securedata.net/bonboncosmetics.com/merchantmanager/images/YSL_VolumeMascara.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Vinoodh Matadin. (Online Image) Available <http://en.ce.cn/entertainment/fashion/lastnews/200802/22/W020080222566490013685.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Vinoodh Matadin. (Online Image) Available <http://frillr.com/files/images/Yves%20Saint%20Laurent%20%20Spring-Summer%202008%20Womens%20Ad%20Campaign2.preview.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

 

Vinoodh Matadin. (Online Image) Available <http://frillr.com/files/images/Yves%20Saint%20Laurent%20%20Spring-Summer%202008%20Womens%20Ad%20Campaign.preview.jpg>. 8 June 2009. 

 

 

Vinoodh Matadin. (Online Image) Available <http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_nXNrMvaiBMo/R8NxT8sFHgI/AAAAAAAACqw/hNZX9GCDfI8/s400/katemoss_ysl2.jpg>. 8 June 2009.

"Yves Saint Laurent." Newsmakers, Issue 3. Gale, 2009.

Reproduced in Biography Resource Center. Farmington Hills, Mich.: Gale, 2009. <http://galenet.galegroup.com/servlet/BioRC>.

 

"Yves St. Laurent." American Decades. Gale Research, 1998.

Reproduced in Biography Resource Center. Farmington Hills, Mich.: Gale, 2009. <http://galenet.galegroup.com/servlet/BioRC>.

 

"Yves (Henri Donat Mathieu) Saint Laurent." Contemporary Designers, 3rd ed. St. James Press, 1997.

Reproduced in Biography Resource Center. Farmington Hills, Mich.: Gale, 2009. <http://galenet.galegroup.com/servlet/BioRC>.